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Los Capitanes

A Good Introduction to Panama

It's one thing to read about retirement in Panama, but there's one inescapable fact. No one is going to retire to a nation they have never visited. If you're interested, you'll have to make your own arrangements. But where to begin? Where can you get a good idea of what Panama has to offer, but not spend a fortune in the process or feel "lost" in a foreign country?

As one possibility, I would recommend the Los Capitanes eco-resort hotel. Los Capitanes is a delightful small hotel in El Valle. El Valle is in the mountains of Panama where the climate is still tropical, but the temperatures and humidity are more moderate than on the coast. For many years, it has been the favored place for a vacation home among Panamanian professionals working in Panama City, about an hour and a half away by car. It is now home to a growing number of expatriates as well.

Los Capitanes is owned by a very special man, Manfred Koch. A retired German sea captain, he has dedicated himself to the development of a reasonably-priced, yet very comfortable, hotel and restaurant. Meeting Manfred alone is worth the visit. A very considerate host, he takes the time to help his clients enjoy their visit to the fullest. You won't get his style of personal service at most hotels anywhere. In addition, his stories of his life at sea are great fun.

However, for the potential retiree, Manfred is especially interesting. He's made the move to Panama successfully and he can explain it from personal experience, not just from observing other people. Best of all, he's fluent in both German and English, so he is able to communicate comfortably with the great majority of overseas visitors.

No matter what you decide about retiring to Panama, you'll have a wonderful time at Los Capitanes. The market in El Valle offers a great variety of Indian handicraft. There are a variety of adventure trails for the hikers to choose from, a "canopy tour" that takes you up into the heights of the rain forest, the "El Macho" waterfalls, a hot springs noted for its therapeutic benefits, and El Nispero, a small zoo with a wide selection of native animals and birds as well as the famous golden frogs found only in Panama. If you're a bridwatcher, you'll think you're in Paradise. If ancient history fascinates you, you need only travel a short distance outside the village to find petroglyphs and pre-Colombian art carved in huge rocks. Horseback riding tours are available from the Hotel and the Pacific beaches are not far away (it's impossible to be "far away" from the beach in Panama!) when the spirit moves you.

Here are a few photos that I took myself during one of my visits to Los Capitanes. These aren't "PR shots". They're the real thing taken with only a disposable camera! Click them to see a larger version that will come up in a separate page.

A few of the bougainvillea that greet the visitor at the hotel entrance. You will find no shortage of flowers at Los Capitanes!

The hotel as seen from the entrance just beyond the bougainvillea.

This gives you an idea of the hotel grounds. The door to the right takes you into a small bar, a room with satellite television (most rooms have their own connections as well), and computers with free Internet access.

This is the one photo I didn't take, but it's an accurate view of the interior of Los Capitanes' restaurant. Manfred serves a variety of foods: international, German, and Panamanian. More importantly, the food's good!

The balcony at my room. Actually, it's a small suite. Most rooms don't have balconies, but I pay a little extra for the suite so I can enjoy the view.

And this is the view from that very balcony. A nice way to start the morning!

You can find cheaper rooms at hostels and you can certainly find far more expensive rooms at other hotels, but Los Capitanes provides a wonderful introduction to Panama and a base for seeing the whole country at a very reasonable rate. Rooms cost $44 - 71.50 a night and suites run from $77 - 93.50 a night, depending on their location and the season during which you visit.

If you'd like more information or to make a reservation, Contact Manfred Koch or visit his website. And, if the thought occurs to you, Manfred and Los Capitanes pay me nothing for this recommendation.